BOWLING GREEN, Ky. — In the heart of what locals refer to as “Little Mexico," you can find Mercadito Hispano. The general store/restaurant has been a staple in the Bowling Green community for the past two decades.
In a city where Hispanics represent less than ten percent (7.5 percent according to the U.S. Census ), Jose Gonzalez and his family have taken it upon themselves to provide a place where their culture is represented and celebrated. Established by his mother 20 years ago, she immigrated from El Salvador to California, where she then decided to establish roots and build a business in Kentucky.
Carrying a meat, bread, produce and dairy department, the market caters to a community living in a food desert. The closest Walmart or Kroger is about a 20-minute drive from the heart of the neighborhood, so the store makes sure to carry the necessities while also catering to all cultures.
“It’s really providing a service to a sector that’s otherwise forgotten. You know a lot of immigrants, not necessarily just Latinos, but also African and Asian, that don’t always want to go somewhere like Walmart, or somewhere where there’s a language barrier that’s more difficult to overcome,” said Gonzalez.
Along with carrying standard meats and cheeses, Mercadito Hispano also delivers a sense of home for some who live in the community. Born in America with family from El Salvador, Gonzalez says the store carries items that bring a sense of nostalgia to those living in the community.
On the shelves, you’ll find everything from plantain chips to Martillos. Gonzalez says the store not only provides a sense of home but gives those who may be unfamiliar a peek into another culture and a chance to try something different.
“But it also provides people here, sort of ties to other cultures, and they get to experience what they would eat on a more daily basis,” said Gonzalez.
Just next door, Mercadito Hispano houses a restaurant that carries everything from fried tilapia to carnitas. After closing their dining room due to COVID-19, they have had to make some adjustments to the way they run their day-to-day. Utilizing carry-out and apps like GrubHub, the restaurant has been able to stay afloat. Gonzalez says they may keep the dining room permanently close to save and cut costs.
“We’ve learned that it's sort of less costly for us to actually maintain the lobby and clean up after people so in a sense we’ve had to evolve because of COVID, but I think in the long run it's shown us an alternative way to work,” said Gonzalez.
Over the past few years, many businesses in the “Little Mexico” community have had to close their doors. Combatting crime, property taxes, and overall customer attendance, it can be hard to maintain a business. Gonzalez says although there have been many bumps in the road, they plan to continue catering to the community for generations to come.
“We’ve been here for going on 20 years now, and so we’re in, our boots are dug in deep, and we plan on staying here and serving the community,” said Gonzalez.
You can find Mercadito Hispano on Woodford Avenue, open Tuesday through Sunday.